Apart from camping at a roadside rest area, which is not uncommon for many camper trailer or caravan owners, there are two choices for accommodation at Daly Waters. The first is the very comfortable Hi-Way Inn beside the Stuart Highway. We chose the alternative Daly Waters township that is well away from the Highway. Here, amidst the history of a booming early cattle industry and WWII relics of a supply line to Darwin that was pivotal to the Australian war effort, is amassed a sprawling array of powered and unpowered campsites and a boisterous, colourful pub that attracts an endless turnover of visitors of all types.

Every effort has been made to enhance a sort of bizarre, flamboyant mixture of mechanical memorabilia with the symbols of the passing parade, bras, signatures, notoriety carcasses of crashed aircraft, all of which creates  the imperative to be here yourself. We stayed two nights and wandered about, not only along the main street but among the nearby pools in the riverbed forming part of the Daly Waters so admirably investigated by John McDouall Stuart in 1862. We also played tennis on the pebbly asphalt, dilapidated local tennis court where I (PD) twisted my knee. it is still on the mend! 

We finally decided to move onto Mataranka and check for news on the Covid lockdowns that were affecting Darwin and Katherine and stopping us from confidently proceeding towards the WA border near Kununurra. We have spent four nights in Mataranka, two at the Manor caravan park and two in Elsey NP, about 20 kms away along the Roper River to the east. First up in Mataranka we visited the local bakery (part of the BP roadhouse) to use their 20 amp 3-phase outlet for a charge. We were here last August charging the car and had the same friendly welcome from the management. In fact we have mostly had very positive responses to the Tesla including people asking questions.  One couple, David and Julie, were very supportive. They are about to take delivery of a Model 3 later this year. Unlike us, they have decided to head north to Darwin and then turn south through SA to enter WA via Eucla. Covid is constantly shaping decisions made by people on how best to work through the barriers of where to travel and where to work.

After checking out Bitter Springs for a swim, and a restaurant meal at the Manor, where we were entertained by Rhyley McGrath a travelling Melbourne blues singer, we spent the next few days camped at Elsey NP. This was only the third time in three weeks we felt like we had properly slowed down. Partly because we had made the decision to attempt the border crossing on 29th August, more than a week away, and felt we were now prepared given we have booked a cabin at Lake Argyle to see out the results of a Covid test, which is the latest requirement on making it into WA!

We are in a quiet setting at Elsey NP with few other campers. We keep moving the car around a few metres in the same way we move our small folding stools to stay in the shade. Our seats are set up on a tilt with our backsides on a cushion on the ground. There is plenty of understorey here for sun protection but few large trees. Great Bowerbirds nip by constantly like high speed, low altitude  projectiles, miraculously weaving their way through the undergrowth to the next display area. It seems every young cock wants to strut about crooning and flipping its purple plume towards any likely prospect irrespective of whether he has a bower or not. Any approach, such as from behind a small tree trunk is worth a try. PS - on a clear run the ta-ta lizards are almost as fast as the bowerbirds!

We have decided, at least for me with my bung knee, not to walk the 8 kms return to Mataranka Falls today. Besides it is very hot and there is plenty of other avian entertainment close at hand

 Our 100w solar mat and mini solar system with battery storage, little fridge and various device charging features is working well. Furthermore, as the sun sets the temperature drops so you can enjoy the cool change and a good night’s rest in the tent. Last night in the tent we watched “Cave of the Yellow Dog”, a DVD about the simple but satisfying life of a Mongolian goat herding family living in a yurt. That was a rare treat, courtesy of our Eudlo neighbours, the Boyles.